Download Printable Folding Attic Stairway Installation Instructions

TOOLS AND MATERIALS NEEDED:
Hammer, ladder, Phillips-head screwdriver, slot-head screwdriver, square, tape measure, saw, 3” lag screws, 16 d nails, 8 d nails, 1” x 4’ temporary support slats (2 pieces aprox.32" long) braces with same dimensions as joists; and 1/4” or 3/8” plywood for shims

BEFORE INSTALLATION:
Verity that this product and its installation meet all applicable building codes. Check stair carefully for shipping damage. Please mark the model name and size of the stair you purchased on the Installation Instructions for future reference. Keep this instruction brochure with the installed stair.

You should have experience with squaring, leveling, sawing, and aligning structural supports before attempting to install this unit. If you do not have the skills to install a window frame or door unit, please hire a professional to install this stairway. Improper installation could result in stairway collapse and possible bodily injury.

*Nominal sizes before machining.

**Extruded aluminum, represents comparative sizing

INSPECTION OF MERCHANDISE.
DO NOT DISASSEMBLE STAIRWAY! MAKE SURE ALL NUTS, BOLTS AND SCREWS ARE SECURELY FASTENED.
Remove cord and tassel from stairway and place through hole in plywood door.

LOCATING THE STAIRWAY
A. Measure and verity ceiling height (the distance from the finished floor to the fInished ceiling) prior to beginning installation.

B. Allow sufficient area for a safe landing space at the bottom of the stairway. Be sure there is enough clearance for the swing of the stair as it is being unfolded to its full length (see FIGURE 1 for “landing space” and “projection”; match the ceiling heights shown on the packing carton with the same ceiling height in TABLE A to determine proper landing space and projection requirements).

Figure 1 - Wood Stairways

MAKING THE OPENING
A. Cut the rough opening through the ceiling material as shown in TABLE A.

B. Frame the rough opening to the size shown on carton.

C. If it is necessary to cut ceiling joists, BE SURE to tie the cut members to other joists with a header or stringer brace of the same dimensions (see FIGURES 2 and 3).

Figure 2 - (Note keeping the corners square to simplify installation)

Figure 3

INSTALLING TEMPORARY SUPPORTS
It is necessary to temporarily support the stairway in the prepared rough opening by using 1” x 4” slats that extend from edge to edge across each end of the rough opening. The slats form a ledge to support the stairway before it is permanently secured. Care is important in positioning the slats. Nail the slats below the ceiling onto the headers as close to the edges of the rough openings as practical for maximum strength. They should extend only 3/8" - 5/8" into the rough opening. The plywood panel must be free to swing open (see FIGURE 4).

Figure 4 - Framed Opening with Temporary Support Slats Ready to Receive Stairs

The slats must be nailed securely enough to temporarily support the weight of the stairway when it is placed in the rough opening. (CAUTION: DO NOT PLACE ANY WEIGHT ON THE STAIRWAY UNTIL PERMANENT NAILING IS COMPLETED.)

PLACING STAIRWAY INTO OPENING
A. While closed, the stairway should now be raised into the rough opening and positioned on the ledges formed by the slats. Working above with a helper below, raise the stairway through the rough opening at an angle so it will clear the slats. Position the stairway in the rough opening. DO NOT STAND ON OR OPEN THE STAIRWAY AT THIS TIME. Make sure you have a helper, below, who can open the stairway to allow completion of the installation.

B. Using at least three evenly spaced 8d nails per side, temporarily affix the stairway in the opening by nailing, at an angle, the well sides to the adjacent joists. Do not drive these nails in all the way so they can be removed later after the permanent nailing is completed.

C. Once the temporary nailing has been completed, have your helper, below, open the stairway door panel and lower the stair sections so that the area for permanent nailing is exposed. DO NOT STAND ON THE STAIRWAY AT THIS TIME.

PERMANENT MOUNTING OF STAIRWAY
A. Be sure stairway is square and level in the rough opening. If the stair frame has bowed while the stairway was in inventory, nails and blocks of wood used as shims will straighten it. Bowing is normal since wood parts are subjected to strong spring tension for some time before purchase and installation (see FIGURE 5).

Figure 5

B. Nail the sides (jambs) of the stairway frame to the rough opening frame, using 16d nails or 3” lag screws. Holes are provided in the pivot plates and piano hinge brackets. Also nail through the end boards into the rough opening headers. Complete permanent installation by using 16d nails or 3" lag screws to secure stairway frame on all four sides of the rough opening according to the diagram in FIGURE 6. Use at least three evenly spaced fasteners on each box end and at least five evenly spaced fasteners on each box side. Remove the 8d nails and the slats used for temporary support.

Figure 6 - X-Indicates Recommended Location of 16d Nails or 3" Lag Screws

ADJUSTING STAIRWAY TO CEILING HEIGHT
Pull stairway down, applying pressure so that hardware arms are fully extended. Open the stair sections, folding bottom section under the middle section. The top and middle sections should form a straight line. Aligning your ruler on the same plane as the two upper sections, measure the distance from the bottom of the middle section to the floor on the front and back (see FIGURE 7). Mark the distances obtained on the front and back sides of the ends of the bottom section, and trim bottom sections at the proper length and angles by cutting across them. With the bottom section cut to the proper length and angle, joints will be tight at each section with weight on the stairs. NOTE: For aluminum stairways, please refer to the bottom of this page (see FIGURE 10).

Figure 7 - Adjustment to Ceiling Heights and Nail Positions

WARNING: The bottom section must fit flush with the floor. Failure to cut properly could result in undue stress on the component parts of the stairway, resulting in serious injury (see FIGURES 8 and 9).

Figure 8 - Correct Setup

Figure 9- Incorrect Setup

Figure 10

ADJUSTING THE SPRING TENSION
Your stairway is equipped with a unique and easy way to adjust the tension on each of the two springs. With the stairway in the closed position, use an adjustable or 7/16” wrench and tighten (turn clockwise) the locknuts on the J-hooks that attach the springs to the door panel. Alternate the tightening of each spring to raise the door panel evenly so it ends up flush with the ceiling.

If your stairway is aluminum, adjust feet by removing bolts and adjusting to measurements obtained below.

ALUMINUM STAIRWAYS
Aluminum stairways come preassembled with adjustable feet. Height ajustments may be made by removing the nuts and bolts on the bottom section and repositioning the feet to the correct height. NOT ALL CEILING HEIGHTS CAN BE ADJUSTED IN THIS MANNER. If your stairway cannot be properly adjusted using the predrilled hole locations, please refer to the INSTRUCTIONS FOR ADJUSTING THE HEIGHT OF ALUMINUM ATTiC STAIRWAYS.

TRIMMING THE STAIRWAY OPENING
A. Select a molding that blends with the trim in your home: 5/8" or 2 1/4" Clam Shell molding is a popular choice.

B. Leave a 3/8" space between the door panel and the trim at the hinge end of the stairway to provide clearance when the stairway is opened.

C. The balance of the trim may be placed approximately 1/8" from the edges of the plywood door panel.

WE SUGGEST PAINTING STRINGERS OR STILES

There...The Job Is Finished!

CAUTION: SAFETY TIPS
• Regular maintenance is required. Check all nuts, bolts and screws to be sure they are tightened.

• Make certain the stairway is aligned properly before each use.

• Check “J” bolts and springs on a regular basis.

• Springs are under tension. Use extreme caution when adjusting or checking.

Download Folding Attic Stairway Installation Instructions

INSTRUCTIONS FOR ADJUSTING THE HEIGHT OF ALUMINUM ATTIC STAIRWAYS

Before Proceeding: You should have the stairway shimmed and nailed at the proper locations.

It is now time to trim the stairway legs and adjust the feet so that they fit flush with the floor and there are no gaps between the hinged sections of the stairway when it is fully extended. It is extremely important that you do not trim the legs too short!

WARNING: Do not stand on the stairway at this time or leave it unattended until the stairway is permanently nailed to the frame and the legs trimmed and the feet properly adjusted. Using the stairway before the legs and feet are properly adjusted will damage the stairway and may cause it to break or collapse unexpectedly, resulting in serious injury.

1. Pull the stairway door down until it locks open.

2. Fold the bottom section of the unit under the middle section. (FIGURE A)

3. With a straightedge, measure distance “F” as shown in FIGURE A and record the measurements in the spaces below. Be sure to measure distance “F” from the top edge of the side rails. These distances must be accurately measured to avoid trimming the legs too short.

NOTE: Measure “E” on both sides of the stairway; the ceiling-to-floor height may not be the same for both sides of the stairway!

“E” Left Rail ________ “E” Right Rail ________
                                -3 in.                                    -3 in.

“F” Left = __________ “F” Right = __________

Figure A

4. Dimension “F” is found by subtracting 3 inches from the “E” measurement. Measure down from the top of the lower section and mark the rail at the “F” dimension on each rail. Using a square, draw a trim line across each rail. These trim lines must be drawn accurately to avoid trimming the legs too short.

5. If either trim line passes through a step, that step will have to be removed. Remove the step by drilling out the rivets that connect the step to the rail. Using a 13/64” diameter bit, drill through the center of the rivet heads (located on the outside of the rail) until the rivet head falls off. If the rivet head does not fall off, gently tap with a chisel and hammer, keeping the chisel parallel with the rail surface. Be careful not to drill into the stairway rail. Once all the rivets are removed, pull the step out between the rails.

6. Place a support under the lower section of the stairway. Using a hack saw with a metal-cutting blade, cut both stairway legs off along the line drawn that corresponds to the “F” measurement. DO NOT TRIM THE LEGS TOO SHORT! If the stairway is used when the legs are too short, it will be damaged and could break or collapse unexpectedly, resulting in serious injury.

7. Fully extend the stairway and place the adjustable feet on the rails. Adjust the feet so that there are no gaps between the metal hinges and the feet are flush with the floor (FIGURE B). Using the hole in the adjustable feet as a guide, drill through the rails using a 13/64” diameter bit (FIGURE C). Using the nuts and bolts provided, bolt the adjustable feet to the rails (FIGURE D).

Figure B

Figure C and Figure D

WARNING: Gaps between the metal hinges mean that the feet are not properly adjusted (FIGURE E, FIGURE F). Do not climb the stairway if there are gaps between the hinges — it will be damaged and could break or collapse unexpectedly, resulting in serious injury. If the stairway looks like FIGURE E then one or both of the feet are too long. If the stairway looks like FIGURE F, then one or both of the feet are too short. If there are no gaps between the hinges but one of the feet does not touch the floor, then the stairway is not safe to use.

Figure E and Figure F

8. Remove the temporary support boards with a pry bar or claw hammer.

Your installation is complete!

SPECIAL NOTE TO USER: Always face the stairway when going up or down; and use the handrail.

CAUTION: The bottom section of each leg of the stairway must always be trimmed so that its ends rest flush with the floor and all sections of the legs are perfectly aligned.

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